And So It Was...

It hasn't really sunken in yet, that my journey is almost at an end. It still feels fresh and at the same time like a normal way of life. Waking up in a new place each day and setting out into the unknown has become my new rhythm. I have grown accustomed to using my body to get me across vast stretches of unfamiliar territory and it no longer seems like something unusual or challenging.

Sure, there are certainly physical challenges and plenty of mental struggles, but it has all become routine. I realized about halfway across the continent that my legs and body no longer ached in the morning as they did the first few days. Certain terrain and geography would push me to the limit, buy when it was over I could still walk around and move normally.

Now, as I make the final approach to my ultimate destination, I feel no sense of finality or relief. It just hasn't sunken in that my daily routine will end. I've grown to expect the same level of physical exertion from each day, so the promise of days without any physical challenge doesn't really effect me. I kept thinking throughout the trip that the last few days would feel like winding down and relief, but they don't.

Don't get me wrong... I'm glad to be done and I feel positive about my accomplishment, but that whole overwhelming sense of achievement and victory just isn't a factor.


It's time to set out for the final leg of the trip. Davis to San Francisco.

I had a great time last night talking to my host, an avid cyclist and airline pilot, and I got a great bed out of the deal. I think I'm set up for a good ride. It's mostly flat, at least the first thirty miles, and I have no problem exerting myself since it's the last day. It's all bike trail out of Davis for about twenty miles and then it's all rural roads into Vallejo.

Sure enough, the morning goes by pretty easily and my ride is backdropped by orchards of apricots and peaches. I pass through some of the most beautiful agricultural areas I have seen in the country. Even though I don't drink wine, I must admit that these grapes look mighty tasty. I don't even know if they are the same kind you eat, but it's very tempting. A few of the roads are lined with vineyards and huge estates. These places look like castles! Enormous gates with stone pillars stand before long, tree-lined drives leading to immense mansions. Each comes complete with the servant quarters and several other buildings which all appear to be larger and more luxuriously appointed than any normal house.

California is insane. This place has some of the nicest houses, farms, landscapes, and recreational areas in the world. The variety is stunning as well. Within one day, I went from ski lodges in the mountains to urban bike trails and condo developments in the city. The next day went through the rougher part of the city and into one of the most peaceful and bike-friendly towns I've ever heard of. Now today has taken me through golden hills, lush orchards, small farming towns and more.

With about thirty miles left before Vallejo, where I intend to catch a ferry across the bay into San Francisco, I spotted a decent looking lunch buffet at a pizza joint in Fairfield. The manager invited me to bring my bike inside and I got a pizza buffet for six bucks. Not a bad stop! If there's one thing I've learned on this trip though, it's to always allow time for heavy foods like pizza and cheese bread to digest a little before attempting to ride on. For that reason, I decided to sit for a little while and review my maps.

The time has come to knock out the final thirty miles and enter San Francisco. Let's do this.

But wait, before I can finish, California apparently wants to throw everything it possibly can in my way. Out of no where there are strong headwinds, stupid-steep hills, alternating heat and cold, and more insanely poor pavement.

Come on, California! Give it up... I'm finishing this whether you like it or not.

It takes a little longer than expected, but I finally make it to the ferry terminal in Vallejo- just in time for the 4:05. They even let me bring the bike inside so I could sit with it. They usually require bikes to be hooked up outside on the deck, and as I witnessed as we crossed the bay, there were huge volumes of salt water splashing up onto the exterior of the vessel so I'm glad my bike remained safe and dry. Overall, it was a very nice ride. It was also the first time I had been transported by a vehicle propelled by anything other than my own legs since Jeff drove me to Virginia back in June. I don't really count the Ohio River ferry because it was only a couple minutes and I stood the whole time.

It's like everyone said as I look out from the ferry. San Francisco is completely shrouded in fog. It looks pretty dismal out there- I don't think I'll be getting my nice sunset picture tonight. Oh well... It's clear to me that the forces of nature have aligned to prevent me from ever witnessing a sunset over the ocean because every time I have had the opportunity, the sky has been overcast. I thought this would be my chance, but I guess I'll have to go somewhere else and try again.


The ferry pulled into the pier and I disembarked to discover that San Francisco is midwinter. Everyone waiting in line to go the other way is bedraped in scarves, hats, wool coats, and winter gear. The temperature is in the high 40's and it's just frigid. With total fog cover and wind, it feels just like a normal winter day. It seems that California is going to try everything to thwart my success. Luckily, I am prepared with my jacket and arm warmers, so I will continue yet again. Nice try, California.

Uh oh. After a few short blocks, I take a turn to the west and I'm greeted by what appears to be a vertical incline. These guys aren't kidding with the hills! I knew San Francisco was known for being hilly, but I just crossed the Appalachians, the Ozarks, the Rockies and the Sierra Nevadas. How hard could these little hills be? Very.

The steepest grade I've dealt with up to this point is 14% and it was only for short bits. These hills are upwards of 20%!!! The streets are at a 45 degree angle to the houses. I have never seen anything this steep.

I tried to scale a block, made it about thirty feet and even in the lowest gear felt like I was going to fall off the back of the bike and gave up. I'm in San Francisco, I made it and I have nothing to prove here, so I think I'll just push it up the hill. I can barely do that! I'm stopping every ten steps to collect myself and recover. This is going to be difficult and it seems that California will really put up a fight to the bitter end.

Some of the hills going down are so steep that I don't even feel comfortable riding down. I just grab the brakes and walk the bike down. This city is really out of control. Who looked around and thought, "Yup, this looks like a good place to stop... Who's got the bricks?" Between the earthquakes and the ridiulous hills, this is probably one of the worst places to build a city, but here it is.

I asked a few locals how to get to the beach for my ceremonial coast-to-coast touchdown. With two separate people directing me the same way, I head on toward the coast with confidence that I've been steered in the best posible direction. After a couple more blocks of heaving my bike by hand, the terrain becomes humanly possible to bike across and I manage to make it all the way to the beach.

I clumsily and slowly drag my bike into the sand but the water is still another 100 yards away. I think being ankle deep in the sand is enough, so I call it a day and stand for a moment to admire the Pacific Ocean. This is my first time laying eyes upon it, and even though the sunset is completely blocked out by thick fog, it feels good to know that it's back there. I started in Virginia with the rising sun and followed it all the way to here. It's over.


I was able to arrange accomodations with an incredible family right in town who has provided me with a bedroom, delicious dinner, and lots of laughs. They are allowing me to stay for a few nights before I fly back to Philadelphia. What a treat it is to get the same comforts of a hotel but without the bank-breaking cost. People like this really help to restore my faith in humanity.

I'm about to take a little walk around the neighborhood and go to bed. I have two full days to be a tourist! First thing on the agenda: Shave and a Haircut. Next: ship bike home. Only other thing I need to do is buy an outfit so I can fly back in something other than Lycra spandex. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to wear real clothes if I'm going to be walking around, too.

Location:San Francisco